I was in Ranelagh over Christmas, and on one stretch of the street which houses five restaurants next door to each other, I noticed something which got me thinking. Two of the restaurants were packed, two were quiet, and one one had a very forlorn looking owner staring out the window of his premises, without a single customer inside.
In an area densely populated with restaurants, what sets one restaurant apart from it's neighbours and draws a crowd when others struggle to do so? In truth there are a number of factors, but for me, attention to detail is the most important one.
Delahunt is the latest addition to Camden Street, which is quickly developing into a restaurant hub, as operators start to flee from the eye watering rents of the the hipster triangle. On the site of an old off licence, this uniquely designed bar & restaurant has quietly created a buzz around town since opening a month ago. With very good reason, that buzz is soon to be anything but quiet.
The room includes some beautifully restored original features such as the Victorian back bar unit and counter. Marble table tops are a nod to the present, and help break up the expanse of dark timber. The lunch menu is short, to the point, and succeeds in under promising and over delivering.
Jerusalem artichoke soup sounded straight forward enough, but the plate arrived garnished with a fricassée of wild mushrooms, hazelnut pesto & micro-herbs. The soup, poured from a ceramic jug, had perfect velvet consistency and was spiked with lick of truffle oil. On the side was a deliciously earthy wild mushroom sourdough toast. See what I mean about under promising and over delivering?
Jerusalem artichoke soup
Wild mushroom toast
Of the three main courses on offer, hake with lentils and beetroot braised in red wine appealed to me most. I'm not beetroot's biggest fan, but in the right hands this ubiquitous root can be the perfect foil for meaty fish. So it proved here, with the braising liquor removing the "farmyard" notes from the beetroot, leaving only it's natural sweetness. The fish, although a little small ( I'd guess a 4 or 5 oz portion), was sparkling fresh and perfectly cooked. A side of sprouts sautéed with bacon retained their bite, and balanced out the dish nicely.
Hake with beetroot & lentils
It being January and lunch time, I skipped dessert in favour of a single espresso which was as good as I've had anywhere.
I don't know the people involved in this project but they obviously care a great deal about what they are doing. Everything from the fresh flowers on the bar, to the considered presentation of dishes and perfectly pulled espresso, demonstrate clear forethought. Attention to detail like this does not happen by accident.
Delahunt managed to slip in under the radar and as a result bought themselves a month before the critics descended on them. From what I hear, this honeymoon is well and truly over.
Go now, while you can still get a table.