When we look back at 2014 in years to come, I think it will be regarded as the year which signaled the beginning of the recovery for the restaurant industry in Ireland. As I've alluded to in posts over the course of the year however, that recovery is making it presence felt more strongly in Dublin than other parts of the country at the moment.
The economic downturn spelled the end of key money for leaseholds in Dublin, and saw rents for vacant properties fall to levels not seen since the dark days of the 1980s. Both these trends have now been reversed, with rents rising sharply again, and key money firmly back on the table.
Demand for restaurant space in Dublin 2 far exceeds supply, and market forces are doing the rest. I am currently looking for locations in D2 for two clients and can confirm first hand that any semblance of value has left the market. Those looking for affordable restaurant space are having to shift their focus away from Dublin 2. Dublin 1, 7 & 8 are now becoming more realistic areas for new cafés & restaurants.
The inevitable consequence of all of these new openings is that the market will become more competitive, and only the strongest will survive. This "natural selection" can only be a good thing for diners, but means existing restaurants must up their game to compete with the ever improving new-comers. I've always maintained that you can never stand still in the restaurant business....those who are not improving and moving forward, are simply going backwards.
The most exciting new openings of 2014, such as The Woolen Mills, Sophies, East Side Tavern, Delahunt, Amuse and Stanley's * have added quality and variety to an already thriving restaurant scene in the capital.
The Wollen Mills. Source: Website
Stanley's, Andrew Street. Source: Ruth Maria Murphy
My gut feeling is that 2015 will be even better than 2014 in terms of the quantity and quality of new openings. The first high profile opening is likely to be former Pichet frontman Nick Munier's new venture, Avenue. I know of a few more very exciting projects in the pipeline that are still under wraps, so watch this space!
One thing is for sure, new ventures will need to hit the ground running in order to compete with the established operators in the market. I personally ate some excellent food in a wide range of places in 2014, and feel strongly that Dublin is now establishing itself as a serious destination for tourists who enjoy excellent food, wine & coffee.
I enjoyed several delicious lunches and stellar coffee in Brother Hubbard, 3FE, and The Fumbally. I will continue to visit all three regularly in 2015. My thoughts about the quality of the food at Etto are well known to readers of this blog, and one of the best dishes I ate in 2014 was a simple hake dish at lunch there in August.
We finally appear to have grasped the gastro pub concept in Dublin and new boys The Old Spot & Delahunt are setting the standard for others to follow.
At the higher end of the scale, The Greenhouse continues to produce some of the best food in the country, for my money. Despite being highly acclaimed in the UK, and rated at 2 Michelin star level by the ever reliable Andy Hayler, Michelin mysteriously continue to ignore them. Maybe 2015 will be their year, although I suspect they are sick of hearing that.
Saison are relative new comers to the fining dining scene, and I enjoyed an excellent dinner there in October. The deep carpets and starched linen give the room a special occasion feel, but the friendly staff ensure that the atmosphere is relaxed and free from stuffiness. Roast turbot with cauliflower and black truffle was a stunning dish which will live long in my memory. I look forward to seeing how they evolve in 2015.
Turbot at Saison.
Much has been written about Forest Avenue over the past year, and rightly so. The cooking is clever, without being too clever, and the execution is top drawer. A simple pork neck dish, cooked until so tender it could have been eaten with a spoon, ranks highly amongst the best plates of food I ate all year.
Pork neck at Forest Avenue
One of my resolutions for 2015 is to dine out more often, and hopefully I will have more time to do so. My list of places to visit is vast but I'm determined to get around to as many as possible. Top of the list is a trip up north to check out the highly acclaimed Ox in Belfast, and also drop in to see Donal and the boys smash it in Harry's Shack, Port Stewart. A long overdue visit to VM in Longford also beckons.
In addition to checking out the new openings in the capital, I will continue to support old favourites such as Juniors, China Sichuan and The Butcher Grill. Throw in return visits to The Tannery and Wild Honey Inn , and I will be a very happy camper indeed. Roll on 2015!
* Disclosure: I was involved as a consultant with Stanley's.