It won't have escaped the notice of anyone with an interest in the restaurant scene, that new openings in Dublin have continued at a pace this year.
Truth be told, there is more quantity than quality, if some of the new places that I've tried are anything to go by. For that reason, we tend to gravitate towards our favourite old haunts when we go out socially. Our nights out together are few enough these days to risk wasting one on a mediocre experience. Work related meals can be more of a lottery however, as they depend on clients' preferences.
I've been lucky enough over the last number of weeks to have enjoyed some superb meals, both of the business and pleasure variety. It has been reassuring to find such quality dining in the capital, even though you need to know where to look.
I have a theory about gastro pubs. Those who call themselves a gastro pub, are usually trying too hard, and miss the mark as a result. Consider the best pubs to eat in around Ireland such as Wild Honey Inn, The Fatted Calf, Mulligan's etc and you won't find the "G" word anywhere near their signage. They are simply operators who care enough to use great ingredients, and are confident enough to let the produce speak for itself in their dishes. I've recently found another one to add to the list, and it's a real gem.
I've been eating in Juniors since they opened, and have been a fan of everything these guys have done since. When I heard they were involved in The Old Spot, it instantly moved up my list of places to visit. I ate there for lunch twice over the last few weeks, and both times enjoyed delicious food made with great ingredients, and plenty of heart & soul. That's the signature of their cooking that I've loved since the outset.
I'm reliably informed that night time is when the kitchen really moves up a gear, so intend checking out dinner very soon. The crispy pork shoulder dish I ate at lunch time was utterly delicious and perfectly balanced, so I'm very much looking forward to seeing what the kitchen produces in the evening.
Crispy pork shoulder with chipotle mayo, fennel salad.
There is something magical about the marriage of top quality meat, and the intense heat of a charcoal grill. The good folk at The Butcher Grill clearly feel the same way, and go to great lengths to serve up some of the best steaks you'll find anywhere in Ireland.
It had been a while since we'd been, but on a recent Saturday night, we blagged the last two seats at the bar and enjoyed a dinner that reminded us why this restaurant has always been one of our go-to spots. The key to it's appeal, for me, is the ingredients. They use excellent quality produce, mostly cooked on the wood smoked Josper grill.
Before I start eulogising about the grilled goodies, a special mention must go to the bread. It was best sourdough I've eaten in years. Served warm, with grassy olive oil and flaked salt ( Maldon I suspect), it was worth the journey on it's own. They import it from France apparently, which is probably a good thing, as I would happily live on nothing else if it were available here.
We ordered scallops and gambas to start. The gambas were sweet and bouncy, the accompanying romesco sauce providing the perfect rich, punchy foil. Scallops with chorizo, artichokes & pickled grapes showed real skill to balance big flavours, yet still allow the seafood to be the star of the show.
Starters done, it was time to move on to the meaty main event. Veal sirloin with sweetbreads & girolles for herself, USDA flat iron for me. Both these dishes were flawless. Excellent raw ingredients, properly aged, charred to a smoky crust on the outside, perfectly rare in the centre. The garnishes and sauces were well judged and perfectly executed. Flat iron is a fibrous cut that requires careful handling. The meat has a little resistance, but it pays back in spades with deep, rich beefy flavour.
Scallops, gambas, veal, flat iron at Butcher Grill. Epic.
I've mentioned before that great meals need context. We hadn't been out in a while for one reason or another, and once we got a reservation at short notice, the planets lined up resulting in a dinner that will will linger long in the memory. A quick night cap in the superb speakeasy above Kinara Kitchen, rounded off a memorable night. If you're into cocktails, you have to check out what these guys are doing.
One of only two restaurant reviews I've done on this blog to date, was Delahunt on Camden Street. I hadn't been since January, but ate there recently with a client. For that reason, coupled with the dim light and my mediocre camera skills, I have no images. You will therefore have to take my word for it that this is a restaurant to be be reckoned with.
The most recent meal was a triumph in under promising and over delivering. The pared back menu of just four starters and four main courses, hid it's light under a bushel, on the face of it. Behind this understatement however, lay a confidence and precision that are the hallmarks of only the most talented kitchens.
My starter of Datterino tomato salad with broad beans, buffalo mozzarella, fried bread & aged balsamic sounded good. It looked and tasted phenomenal. Beautifully presented, perfectly room temperature, the marriage of quality ingredients and well thought out textures resulted in a stunning dish. All ingredients were bang in season to boot ( although they didn't feel the need to shout about it on the menu). Across the table from me, someone who knows as much about good food as anyone in this country, declared her starter of spiced duck ham with peaches and feta one of the best things she'd eaten in a long time.
Main courses didn't disappoint either. Guineafowl with Morteau sausage, peas & baby gem was again perfectly seasonal, and again a stellar piece of cooking. On the face of it, a fairly simple dish but there were a lot of processes which were executed perfectly to deliver a dish of this standard. Likewise the John Stone lamb rump with crispy haggis was declared a triumph. Very few ingredients on the plate, but those few were carefully sourced and combined to elevate the dish way beyond the sum of it's parts.
There is something about eating great food which lifts the spirits. I'm not exaggerating when I say that my mood has brightened considerably having eaten so well over the last few weeks. It's hugely encouraging to know that such commitment to great sourcing and cooking is cropping up more and more often here. I also think it's important not to get caught up in the rush to go to the latest new opening. Give new ventures a chance to bed down, and in the meantime re-visit the places that have never let you down...they deserve your continued support.