When we look back at 2015 in years to come, I think it will be remembered as the year when the much lauded green shoots of economic recovery finally blossomed.
In restaurant terms, it will surely be viewed as the year that Ireland cemented it's place as a serious food destination. There are now excellent quality places to eat in most restaurant categories, in most parts of the country. From what I've read about the new ventures due to open in 2016, the bar is set to be raised another notch or two this year.
The origins of this current renaissance can be traced to Dublin 2, but rising rents and key money have caused a ripple effect stretching to D1, 4, 7, 8 and beyond. I was excited to read at the weekend about two chefs with serious pedigree planning to open in Sallins.
From a personal point of view, I enjoyed better food in Ireland in 2015 than I have done for many years. I've picked out some of the highlights below.
Best Dish 2015
I've mentioned this in a previous post, but my best meal of 2015 was at Bastible. The standout dish of the year for me, was their beef shoulder. Deceptively simple, perfectly cooked and balanced. Huge flavours were expertly married together to create a harmonious dish that will live long in my memory. The cat is well and truly out of the bag, and advance booking is required, but if you get a chance to taste this dish in 2016, grab it with both hands!
Beef shoulder, smoked bone marrow at Bastible.
Best Restaurant 2015
I was lucky enough to eat out quite a bit in 2015, both for business and pleasure. In addition to reliably excellent food in my favourite spots like China Sichuan, Etto and Butcher Grill, I re-visited one new(ish) restaurant more than any other.
Over the half dozen or so meals I had in Delahunt last year, a couple of things struck me. Firstly, the short, carefully considered menus strictly use ingredients which are in season, but do not feel the need to shout about it. Secondly, every single time I ate there in the last twelve months, was better than the time before. The cooking is confident, pared back and really lets the ingredients speak for themselves.
These guys are clearly pushing hard to continuously improve, and for my money, are producing some of the most consistently excellent food in the city as a result. For that reason, they are my restaurant of the year for 2015.
I understand that they have now added a new cocktail bar upstairs, which I've no doubt will be a huge success too.
Delahunt - Best Restaurant 2015. Image Source-Website.
Best Of The Rest
Work kept me in Dublin most of last year, and limited my opportunities to get around the country to tick some boxes on my ever increasing list. I did manage to get to Belfast in October however, and ate a truly memorable dessert at Ox. Their baked apple with fig leaf ice cream was the stand out dish of their five course tasting menu.
Closer to home, Forest Avenue continues to produce stellar food, and I won't forget the pork neck I had there anytime soon. I understand they have a new venture in the pipeline with the seriously talented Ciaran Sweeney at the helm. Of all the exciting new openings coming our way this year, this one rings my bell more than any other.
Proper pub food is now thankfully more commonplace in Dublin, and The Old Spot became one of my favourite haunts in 2015. Nothing fancy, just good ingredients cooked really well by people who care. Other so-called "gastro pubs" please take note.
Serial restaurateur John Farrell continues to set the bar with brilliant concepts which always deliver. I enjoyed cracking food in Super Miss Sue, 777 and the ever reliable Butcher Grill in 2015. Luna is top of my list for visit, just as soon as I get the January abstinence monkey off my back! I've read recently that Farrell plans to open a Chinese version of 777 on Camden Street this year. It would take a brave person to bet against that being a massive hit.
It had been years since I'd visited Pearl Brasserie but can happily report that it's as good as ever. We enjoyed a superb lunch there during the year. It still retains that sense of special occasion and both the cooking and service were top notch.
It's no secret that 3FE do great coffee. The best in Ireland, in my opinion. In 2015 however, they upped their food game considerably, and introduced restaurant quality dishes at lunch time. I've enjoyed several delicious lunches there recently, all very reasonably priced to boot.
Of the new openings in 2015, Conor Dempsey's Amuse on Dawson Street is probably the most original, and certainly up there with the very best. Classic French techniques are married perfectly with well judged Asian flavours. The end result is precise, clean yet utterly delicious food and some of most beautiful plate dressing you're likely to see anywhere.
Clockwise : Amuse, 3FE, Forest Avenue, The Old Spot.
I'm hoping to escape from Dublin more often this year. There are some places still on my list from 12 months ago, that I haven't gotten around to visiting yet, such as Viewmount House and Harry's Shack. A return to Galway is definitely on the cards also, as is a visit to The Mews in Baltimore. I met these guys at an event in Dublin recently, and love the sound of what they have planned for the coming season.
Just keeping up with the new openings in Dublin this year will be a challenge, but in addition, I plan to visit Locks, Luna and Brioche very soon. I love the look of what Mickael Viljanen is doing in The Greenhouse at the moment, and just waiting for first excuse for a return visit. I'm also hearing great things about Dylan Mc Grath's Taste at Rustic and really want to try Elaine Murphy's new ventures too.
2016 promises to be another seriously exciting year for Irish restaurants. Even though the increased competition from good quality new openings will inevitably lead to some natural selection, hopefully those blossoming shoots of economic recovery will put down permanent roots. This will increase the pool of diners and help the good places survive and thrive. If we continue on this path, we're well on the way to securing our place internationally as a destination for gastronomic tourists.