Let me say straight out of the gate that I never liked the "G" word. It was coined in the UK in the early 1990's to describe pubs which began serving restaurant standard food. It has since been so overused and abused, that it has lost any sense of meaning which it may have once had. As a result, it is almost unheard of now in the UK. Trends in Ireland tend to lag about five years behind the UK, so I'm hopeful we'll get to the stage where it will disappear from our vocabulary too.
I have a very clear idea of the type of pub I'd love to see in Dublin, but is sadly missing, despite the spate of openings over the last few years. I'd like a pub that serves restaurant standard food that I'd travel for, has a good wine/drinks list, & great coffee. I'd also like to be able to go there just for a drink ( i.e it operates as an actual pub, as opposed to a restaurant). It's a simple enough idea, and one which our friends across the Irish Sea do so well. We, on the other hand, do not appear to have ever grasped the concept.
There are plenty of pubs serving decent enough food in Dublin. I've always liked the food at The Chop House, even though I consider it more of a restaurant than a pub. I've also had decent food at The Leopardstown Inn, Ashtons, The Clonskeagh House, The Exchequer, and The Headline. The most consistently good pub food I've eaten in Dublin has been at The Old Spot and Mulligans in Stoneybatter. Having said all that, for a city of it's size, Dublin should have a pub which serves food on par with those found in most towns and villages in the UK. For my money, the closest we come to that standard in Ireland, is Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna.
Wild Honey Inn, Lisdoonvarna
One of my favourite places on the planet to eat is The Sportsman , on the Kent coast. I previously included it in this post about the best meals I've ever eaten. They use excellent ingredients, cook them really well, and serve them simply. This is a common thread running through most of the best UK pub food. Others such as The Drapers Arms, The Hardwood Arms, The Smoke House, and The Bull & Last serve simple yet delicious food that I would gladly travel to London especially to eat. Sadly, I can't think of a single pub in Dublin who's food would get me off my sofa.
Brill and chanterelles at The Sportsman, Kent.
All over the UK, there are pubs serving truly excellent food, and I've been trying to understand why we've never achieved anything like the same standard here. There are most likely many variables involved, but I feel that one major factor is the ownership structure. Most of the best food pubs in the UK have serious cooking pedigree at the heart of their ownership. They are mostly chef-owned, or set up by people from a restaurant background. Food is the focal point, and everything else evolves from there. In Ireland however, the reverse tends to apply. Most pubs are set up by business people, and food is introduced purely to add value and drive revenue. Alcohol sales generally take priority and the business evolves from that point. The "gastro pub" label usually gets introduced by the PR people because it is considered "on trend", and not because the wings/burgers etc which the kitchen are peddling can be considered in any way gastronomic.
It's no coincidence that the people behind Wild Honey Inn followed the UK model. They have proven that it is possible to build a successful pub business, where the food takes centre stage. The food is simple, but well executed and delicious.
I've had emails from PR companies over the past couple of months about two new "gastro pubs" opening in Dublin. None of the blurb for either mentioned who the chef was. I suspect they may not have even filled the positions at that point. Both are now open and the results are predictable and depressing.
My advice to anyone thinking of opening a restaurant is to start by finding a great chef, sourcing the best produce possible, and writing a menu. The menu will dictate what staff you will need, the layout of the kitchen & restaurant, and will be the linchpin in your financial plan.
The same rules apply for anyone thinking of opening a pub that serves great food. If you're a chef, go and work in the best food pubs in the UK and learn how it's done properly. Have a clear idea from the outset about what style of food you would like to produce. Keep it simple - it's not about rolled up vegetable ribbons and dozens of flavours. The best pub food tends to have no more than 3 or 4 harmonious elements on the plate. The key is quality produce and good cooking. All it takes is for someone to have the confidence to cook their own food, and not try please everyone by sticking the usual suspects on the menu. We have plenty of young cooking talent in Ireland, and no shortage of world class produce. I live in hope.